Coming Up Short: The Reepschnur Rappel Rectification
Warning: Advanced Skills Ahead
This is not a beginner tip. Practice extensively in a low consequence environment before attempting on the rock. Messing this up will mess you or your friend up.
Inspired by this Instagram post, I decided to share a solution to a common problem in multipitch climbing: what to do when your ropes are slightly to short.
Self-Rescue is a phrase climbers toss around quite a bit. It can mean a series of steps taken to deal with common problems climbers find themselves in. But I think of it more as a toolbox. In it you have skills, which together allow you to accomplish a task. Those tasks can be solutions to situations you’ve been in countless times, or they can be completely novel and unique; similarly, the way you get there can be something you’ve practiced a million times, or perhaps improvised on the fly (given that you’re extremely familiar with your tools). Recently I was in the Instagram comment threads discussing a common issue known to many a multi-pitch climber: your rope is just a little to short to reach the next rappel station. What now? Do you use a long personal anchor to clip the bolts and gingerly climb down, trying to avoid a factor 1+ fall on your static sling? Ascend all the way back up? I proposed something different. Introducing the Reepschnur Rappel Rectification (RRR).
The Situation
The whole point of the RRR is to have everyone actually rappel to the anchor instead of being sketchy with other methods. If we knew the rope wasn’t long enough, we would have done a reepschnur from the get go, hence the rectification. We’ve already partially set the scene, but let’s get into the details.
The rappel is too long for a single rope rappel, but would be reachable with a reepschnur rappel (i.e. you have enough cord, slings, or cams to make it work)
The first person down (henceforth referred to as the leader) is able to unweight the system and climb, at least ~10’
The person above at the anchor (the follower) is either not pre-rigged, or is able to transition off the pre-rig and onto a tether
Clear communication is possible
The Solution
The leader ensures both ends of the rope are securely knoted*
The follower preps to remove their pre-rigged rappel device by securing themselves with a tether
The leader unweights the rope and climbs enough for the follower to remove their pre-rigged rappel device
The follower removes their pre-rigged rappel device
The follower sets up a standard slingshot TR belay (like you’re cragging, or at the gym) on either strand, using the rappel rings as the redirect point
The follower ties an overhand on a bight ~20’ below their belay device*
The leader climbs as the follower belays until one rope in the leader’s rappel device is slack
The leader downclimbs (to account for rope stretch), eventually weighting one of the ropes through their device, jamming the stopper knot*
The leader unties the stopper knot in the loose rope and pulls it through their rappel device while keeping the carabiner locked, then re-ties the stopper knot (both ends should now be knotted again)*
The follower lowers the leader until the leader reaches the next anchor
The follower sets up a reepschnur rappel, using the long strand as the rappel line
The follower performs a reeschnur rappel
A few key points here:
On step 1, knotting both ends allows for the follower to belay either strand, eliminating a possible miscommunication. As we know, a pre-rigged rappel only requires one stopper knot for the leader.
On step 6, the catastrophe knot is because we’re lowering from above. Without it, losing control of the brake strand could cause the leader to fall a significant distance. While normally a friction hitch backup is used when lowering from above, I find that either unrealistic if using a grigri or ineffective if using a tube on the belay loop. I recommend a slingshot belay because the leader needs to be belayed both up and down and it is the most familiar system for most climbers.
On step 8, the stopper knot must be impossible to pull through the rappel device. Make it large, secure, and with plenty of tail. It is the only thing securing the leader.
On step 9, the re-tying of the stopper knot is merely a failsafe in case the follower sets up the reepschnur incorrectly and rappels the short strand. Ideally, the leader should be able to tell if this happens long before the follower reaches the end of the rope (and tell the follower to ascend), but I still felt it prudent to account for this possible error.
Considerations
First off, the leader needs to be able to climb. This can be a bit of C0 if they need to aid and have the right gear, but the RRR only works when the leader is able to unweight the rope. Another big one is the follower needs to be familiar with the reepschuner rappel. Furthermore, this system is complex and requires clear communication. You’ll be at the end of your rope, likely 30m or further from your partner. For this reason, I highly recommend only doing the RRR when you have walkie-talkies or visual communication. Since you’ll be belaying through them, this system works best with smooth rappel rings meeting at a single point as opposed to something like Metolius Rappel Hangers or horizontally oriented anchors. Finally, be aware of possible damage to your rope from a weighted lower.
Why
The reepschnur is the clear choice if your rope is only a bit short for the rappel; it makes sense as a desired end point if you end your rappel just above the anchors. Besides the RRR, other solutions are un-roped downclimbing, ascending (either to an existing anchor or constructing one) then letting your partner pick you up after they rig a reepschnur for themselves, or risking a FF1+ fall on a static system if you can reach the anchor but not unweight the rope. The RRR may be complicated, but it works in nearly every situation and provides a high level of security to all members of the party.
